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Wawel Hill is sacred to the Polish people, a castle and royal residence since the 11th century. The park-like scene entices Poles to drop by and celebrate their nation's epic story. Everything is layered in history, including the venerable Wawel Cathedral. Architecturally, it's a hodgepodge, a riot of towers and chapels. This national church, with its many tombs, is a who's who of the nation's most beloved figures, from saints to generals to kings and queens. And if you're going to remember only one name, make it Casimir the Great. He ruled Poland from Krakow in the 14th century. The larger-than-life Casimir was a great warrior, diplomat, and patron of the arts.
His scribes bragged that Casimir found Poland made of wood and left it made of stone and brick. In fact, he even made it on the 50s loti note. Casimir provided refuge for Jews expelled from other lands, and he established the tradition that Poland would provide safe refuge for Europe's Jews. In fact, for centuries, an estimated 1/3 of the world's Jews lived right here, in a land known as the Jewish paradise. While they still faced some persecution, Jews carved out a relatively vital niche in Polish society as Poland became home to an estimated 1/3 of the world's Jews.
Krakow's historic Jewish district is named for Casimir. Until the 20th century, Jews made up a quarter of Krakow's population. Of the neighborhood's many historic synagogues, some are still places of worship. But today, the economy is mostly tourism. And touristy restaurants feature klezmer, a Jewish traditional folk music that stokes a nostalgia for their poignant story. The old cemetery of Kazimierz also honors the Jewish past. This grave remembers a beloved 16th century rabbi. Prayers are lovingly tucked into the cracks and crevices of his tombstone. And rocks stacked atop tombs, also representing prayers, recall the
ancient Jewish tradition of covering sandy graves with stones to prevent them from being disturbed. Jewish cemeteries, like the community of Kazimierz itself, were nearly destroyed after Nazi Germany invaded Poland in 1939. Gravestones crushed under Nazi tank treads were later assembled into memorial mosaic walls. During the Holocaust, the vast majority of Krakow's Jews ended up in concentration camps, and fewer than one in 10 survived World War II.
