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Hey, I'm Rick Steves back with more of the best of Europe. This time we're in France and our crew includes a captain and a chef. We're barging the dreamy canals in Burgundy on a gourmet cruise. Thanks for joining us. More than any TV show we've ever produced, this episode is unapologetically hedonistic. An everchanging graceful view from our barge. Gourmet meals. Fine. Wine. There. and memories of a lifetime. Sante, our goal to experience a canal cruise in
the local Burgundian cuisine in this laidback corner of France. And you've got so many options. Small boats, big boats, full service or do-it-yourself. Budget or luxury, they all work just fine. Our cruise today comes with a great cast. Captain Max, Hostess Mag, Chef Voytech, and First Mate Phillip. Along with the crew, I'm joined by the co-author of my France guide book and mentor in all things French, Steve Smith, who actually lives just down the canal. While industrial age canals are all over Europe, we're in France in the region of Burgundy.
And we'll be cruising on the Son River and the Canal Dontra with side trips into the fabled Burgundian vineyards of the Kotar. Hello. Steve and I are boarding our barge in the town of Shalon Cers or Shalon on the Son River. Departing from an industrial city like this is a reminder that an economic power like France has long relied on rivers and canals to get cargo in and out of ports. And we'll cruise a bit of this river before entering the canal. Huge river boats are popular for relaxing vacations on rivers all across Europe. But with over a 100 passengers, they're too big to venture into the canals.
A rusty old industrial barge and beached cargo boats along the riverbank beneath an abandoned factory. They're all reminders of how these waterways were originally all about transporting freight. Coal, wheat, corn, you name it. This massive lock has lifted barges up to France's Canal Dantra for a century. And today it's raising us up away from all the industry of the river and into a more charming world. These delightful green belts support a playful wonderland of people enjoying life. The scenery is like a slow motion parade through the rural charms of Burgundy. Delightful village scenes, sleepy cows, a mesmerizing tranquility.
It is so beautiful. Yeah, it's amazing. Do you get tired of this beauty or is it always Oh, I am never born with No, it's actually always interesting. Many different place, many different canal. Captain Max grew up on canal barges. He loves his boat. He loves his work and he enjoys sharing his chart. 22 here. Nice. And you have a 21, of course. So, three locks to send a day. Yeah. While originally built to carry coal and grain, these days barges carry tourists. And the canals are all about recreation. So, we could really explore almost all
of France on canals like this and rivers and rivers. It's a beautiful way to travel. Yeah. It's a wonderful way to travel because everybody take care of you here. As a captain, Max, you have to be patient also. If there's a boat in front of you, you need to wait because you can't turn around. You can't pass. I know. Locks are an integral part of any canal trip. One at a time, barges slip in, fitting like a glove, they rise or fall with the water level. As the size of the locks hasn't changed in 200 years, generally neither have the barges. Locks like these, this is an extreme example in England, allow boats to climb or descend steadily, little by little, a few feet at a time, stairstepping all across France.
Using rivers, canals, and locks, you can float from the Mediterranean over the continental divide and all the way to the Atlantic. And the pace of barging almost forces you to slow down and relax. A big part of the fun of cruising on a barge are the stops. Tiny ports along the canal serve as a cross between a park and a marina, and they provide a springboard for creating memories. That's the best way for us to On our first day, Philipe lets me tag along on a shopping trip to the weekly market of Luan, one of the best in Burgundy. Vacation barging in France is all about good eating and that requires the freshest ingredients.
Monday is certainly the big day for Lewan. It is the market day. The only one of the week. The one everybody expects. Everything's got to be fresh. Everything got to be fresh and eaten fresh, too. Well, that's why there's so many good sample things. Oh, nice. And what is this? Is this one? Okay. From Py. From the Pyrenees. From Pyrenees. Yeah. The border of Spain. We have a tour of France right here.
Absolutely. A large rank. You know, I think in France more than maybe any other country. I think cheese. Absolutely. And not one cheese, a whole selection of cheese. Look at it. Cow's milk bra. You mean this is all the region surrounding Burgundy. And that's for every taste and everyone. You make everybody happy there. The farmers must be proud of their produce here. They are. They so very are. And bringing them to the market is probably they're expecting that all week, you know, and it's all there. Look for us.
These radishes look delicious. They look like they are. Look at that. Let's get some for the boat, shall we? Good idea. Hey, that's right. We are on the Mediterranean in France. We have olives. Look at that. All the salads. Shall we try some? Sure. Wow. Garlic pil. Oh, that's nice. This would be good for the apparatit. I think so. An entire section of the market is filled with favorite meats. rabbit, chicken, and duck, which couldn't be any fresher, and I imagine will soon be on our dinner plates.
Barging is a decadent mix of travel, eating, and relaxing, all accompanied by a smooth and steady parade of Burgundian beauty. And as we joy ride, our chef is busy in the galley. Despite the tight quarters of a barge, he cooks up the most deliciously French meals with ease. Our first lunch takes patience to create. The chef gently cradles Esargo shells while he artfully fills each one with a buttery garlic mix. Then the snail is coaxed back into the shell and that's followed by more butter. The transformation of the snails is complete as they emerge from the oven as esargo de Borgonia.
Nice. Burgundy makes them in the most traditional way. Right. This is where they really started. And that means they're they're baked, cooked, and then put back in their shell. So served in the shell. That would be And that's Burgundian. That's right. And with garlic butter. Back in the kitchen, Voytech puts the finishing touches on our main course. White beans slowcooked to perfection, topped with crispy leg of duck confi. It's a gourmet spin on the classic casulet. Casule, well, it's an old Roman concoction and everybody does it in their own way. Every chef will have their own style and it's it's old peasant food like so much of French cuisine. Usually, it's got a lot of
sausage, duck spliced in with white beans. This is beautiful. Our chef has decided to take that basic casualty of duck cooked in his own fat. And I love how we've got a crispy skin and a tender inside. It's really good. Canal barges are often a century old and refurbished for their second act as floating hotels. I break you and explore a ship. They vary in amenities, but generally come with a cozy lounge, a well stocked bar, a small but elegant dining room, and shipshaped staterooms. Of course, deep down is the engine room. Here's my engine room. Originally steam, converted to diesel, lovingly maintained, it hums reliably and quietly.
The deck puts the joy into our joy riding. And I love a little time up in the helm making sure Captain Max remembers to duck for the bridges. So, how long have you been a captain? All my life. When I was 10 years old, I was in the wheel with my father and he showed me. So, it's in the family. It's in my blood. It's in your blood. Yeah. This is your world. It's a beautiful world. I do. You see the France by another behind the door. You know this is the real life.
It's time to work up a bonapetit with a little hike. With a lock every mile or so and a toe path always along the canal, it's hard to get lost. So, it's a good walk. It's a beautiful walk and we'll see you in two locks. Okay, that's right. It's great how these toe paths are appreciated even to this day. Yeah. Imagine when these canals were first built, they needed these toe paths to pull the boats before they had steam engines. Before they adapted the engine, yeah, they used horses and donkeys, humans, prisoners. Today, recreation,
it's all about recreation today. Because going through the locks takes time, we can walk at about the speed of the boat. Reconnecting at the locks is easy. And if making some friends along the way delays us, we can just phone the captain. In the past, locks came with an attendant who lived in a little cottage or lock house and was responsible for opening and closing the gates. Now, those gates are automated. Beautiful. Christian who manned this lock for 30 years is now retired and he enjoys walkers like us admiring his Burgundian world. So you have the most beautiful flowers on the canal.
Steve knows a great chateau just a short walk from the canal where we can taste some Burgundy wine served by the lord of the chateau himself. This is the famed coat door or golden slopes and as it's early September it's harvest time. Okay, so we're working in a clo. You can see there is a four walls everywhere. Raul is proud that this enclosure or clo with its stony walls still protects the very best part of the vineyard as it has since the middle ages. It's all about exposure to the sun and the personality of the soil. the terois. This is a classic Burgundian scene and it's a privilege to share it with a man whose family's long been a part of this rich heritage. So how do you know when to harvest?
So we have to look and also to test. We take a grapes we test it and we have the sugar skin is quite thin is not too strong. And after we also have some can do some test in the lab in the W state just to be sure with the sugar level. 600 years ago your great grandpa could stand here and taste a grape right here. Exactly. And he would think the skin is just perfect. Just perfect. Here this is a chat duri. So this castle is in my family since the beginning. That means since the end of the 12th century.
Look at yes my family. So I am the 26th generations. This is a very old kitchen. This is a medieval kitchen. So this kitchen is in the 12th century tower. So this is the oldest part of the castle. There's many centuries of wine tasting right here. Exactly. Let's continue that tradition. Of course. So the label there we have the name of the wine estate and which is very nice interesting. This is we have the name of the plot. So the name of the land moles. So molesma is the name of that little a little piece of land like we were just at. Exactly. Burgundy's known for its pon noir and we're tasting some of Raul's very best.
First smell it. Very nice pin noir. Then you can taste it. Oh, that has a personality. What would I be tasting? We have a bit of red fruit, not of leather. Red fruit, leather. Okay. And what? What else? So this one is earthy. Yeah. The French call it suvois or under the woods. Under the woods. I like that. Okay. Walking on, we take with us a few bottles of Raul's Best for dinner. The captain will be happy.
We rejoin our barge just in time to carry on with our cruise. Hey, two cups. Two. There we go. Thank you. Welcome back. Great one. Today, the canal traffic is almost exclusively recreational. And there's a range of floating options. Small hotel barges like ours and this classic beauty. bigger barges accommodating 8 to 20 passengers and self-drive boats for hire which come with an abundance of fenders. These sleep up to six and are actually quite affordable. Regardless of the size of your boat, the beauty and relaxing tranquility of Burgundy by canal is all yours.
Comfortably settled back on board, it's time for a pre-dinner apparatif. So, what are the classic French apparatifs? Well, of course, you have the creme de cassiss uh from Dijon, which you mix with white wine to make a kia is delicious. Or you if you like something a little bit stronger, they have the pastis, which is an anise based lure, which you mix with water and ice. Nice. Well, I know Steve likes a cure. Oh, yeah. And I'd like to try a pastis. Excellent. The apparatif. It's an almost sacred tradition and another example of the French passion for the fine points of good living. So, it's a it's part of these rituals of
good living. I It is. And it's a relaxed ritual. Yeah. I couldn't be more relaxed right now. I'm with you on that. Look at this, man. Oh, God. I'm so happy to have you in my part of the world. Yeah, it really was great. Yeah. Whether on a full service barge or in a do-it-yourself rental boat, savoring those memories with a nice drink on deck, we life is good. Lie seon. A great thing about barging, you're free to stop almost anywhere. You simply choose your spot and pound a steak for a quick and readymade morage.
Within minutes, our gang plank is set up. And after another fine day, we're settled in for another delightful spot to spend the night. Tonight's dinner is another lesson in French cuisine. We start with poached eggs set in toasted bio with wild mushrooms. Oh, that looks beautiful. And a creamy cheese sauce. And the cheese is the puas. It's the most revered cheese from Burgundy, and I've never seen it like this, and it's marvelous.
Regardless of how you travel in Burgundy, you'll want to eat local and with the season. While we savor the first course in wine, the chef is busy plating the next course. A bed of pureed black trumpet mushrooms, neatly piped potato puree, and green beans topped with juicy breast of burgundy chicken. What I love this ensemble, we've got the chicken from the market. We've got the wine from the chateau down the street. We met the man whose family makes this. And every it's really simple food cooked in a way that feels I don't know French elegant. Mhm. Oh, dessert tonight is more of Raul's wine and a cheese course.
And this is a tour to France. She's delivered us cheeses from Burgundy, from the Lir from southern France rofor, and from the Alps in one simple plate. So, Dista Burggonia is the classic Burgundy cheese. I love it. But this one's different because it's rolled in a grainy mustard. This long log is from the L Valley. It's goat cheese rolled in wood ash and it has a little straw down the middle that keeps its um shape. But Rogue for this cheese is aged in these caves in Rogue Fort Suiz. It's a village in southern France. Out of this world, strong. Eat it last. In France, you can't serve a good meal without fresh bread. While we still sleep, Phipe starts his day with a trip
to a nearby bakery. Locals appreciate the baguettes fresh out of the oven. And this baker, he's a local hero. French people from all walks of life share this ritual, a love of fresh baked goods in the morning. The French passion for eating well and with just the right ingredients begins with the first meal of the day. Homemade jams with croissants still warm from the bakery. Seasonal fruits. A, this is a work of art. And after all, this is Burgundy. More cheese. This is Burgundy. A great morning activity is a bike ride.
Thank you. Wherever there's a canal, there's a tow path. And they're a favorite with bikers. I like this part. We share the path with an array of bikers of all abilities and the occasional fishermen. or ride into the nearby vineyards where service roads double as bike paths and convenient signs point the way to pit stops of every varietal. Many barge tours include a van, which makes side tripping easy. Burgundy's top sites are mostly within an easy drive. The region is crisscrossed with canals and dotted with quiet farming villages. With rich traditions and a proud heritage, there's plenty to see and experience. From familyrun chateau like Rosh Po to venerable medieval abbies like Fontine, all nestled in the
inviting Golden Hills, some of France's most prized real estate blanketed with beloved vineyards. It's Burgundy's coat door. After a glorious week, I'm into the canal vacation groove. However you travel here, the proper tempo for enjoying the canals of Burgundy is relaxed. For our final stop, we more at an idyllic canal park named St. Julian. Steve and I have challenged our crew to a game of Paton. It's us against Megan Phillip. Paton is a favorite pastime in France and whacking each other's balls is a perfect way to spend a convivial hour canal side with a traditional pastis. I like the game because it's quick and easy to learn and even first
timers can be competitive. As emotions on the court build and appetites are stoked, back on the barge, our chef prepares one last tasty lesson in French cuisine. The French love to creatively pair ingredients like fresh figs simmered in butter and wine with fuagra, the rich duck liver pate. This pairing gives the classic contrast in textures and flavors. Fuagra is buttery, savory, and delicate, while figs are sweet and juicy. Yes. The sweetness of the fig balancing with the richness of the liver. It's deliciously French. This is sort of the quintessence of richness.
No, you got to have it with the wine. That is delightful. Back in the galley, it's all about piping the cream potatoes and horseradish. And then a serving of the regional favorite that just screams Burgundy. A rich beef boron. This looks good. The best beef in France is from Burgundy. It's those white cattle we've been floating by. The charlet. They make the best beef sauteed with red wine, which is also Burgundian. What could be more regional than this? There really is something about that zero kilometer philosophy where you've got the local cows and the local grapes. M the sauce is worth really It's everything appreciating. That's why the spoon is kind of nice.
Mhm. Look at that. And the bread. M. As the balmy evening fades into darkness, perfectly formed raspberry soulets cap our meal. Ah, and I thought I was full. There's always room for a little more of edible France and another tasty memory. I've long enjoyed France and the range of experiences it offers and I got to say a gourmet barge vacation in Burgundy. Say Magnafi. Thanks for stoing away with us. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time. Bonvoyage. And I forget to ask Burgundian. Yeah, I don't get it. Hey, that's nice. Is there more?
Shut up. Uhoh. That's right. Let's go. We can get on the boat now, right?
